A few days on the Jesus Trail

On a somewhat spontaneous decision as I was planning the Palestine section of my adventure, I decided I would hike the Jesus Trail in the Galilee. I did not enjoy long hikes as a kid, so it is somewhat surprising that I would decide now to hike the 65 km trail between Nazareth and Capurnum that usually takes about 4 days (read more about it here: http://jesustrail.com/.) I saw it as both a pilgrimage and a personal endurance challenge. Here are some of my reflections from the each day on the hike:

Day 1:
I hiked at least 13.5 km from Nazareth to Cana. It was exhausting – but invigorating. A challenge I can live up to. The 400+ steps out of Nazareth old city made for a difficult start – but the view from the overlook was breath taking and the rest of the day much easier by comparison. Every time I almost lost the trail markers, my instincts were solid and I chose the right path and I got to celebrate a mini victory when I recognized a white-orange-white blaze up ahead.  I realized I didn’t know how to great people in Israel, my “marrahba” which worked everywhere else I’ve traveled in the past 2+ months falls flat here. Little children love to say hello to the foreigner walking past. I think I am finally going to get Mom’s chacos to fit properly – only one blister today! - but I still miss the pair that Trudeau ate back in September.  And the most surreal of my experiences so far: I got rocks thrown at me by shepherd boys on my way into Cana. Only two rocks, only one of which hit me, but they were half a fist sized stones. I kept walking and didn’t even turn back, but at that moment I felt truly aware of my physical safety – and how much it depends on other people acting as rational human beings.

Day 2:
We got lost today. I can say we because I had a hiking buddy. Tom from Colorado caught up with me on our way out of Cana, and then we proceeded to miss a trail marking and walk in circles for a couple of hours – turning what should have been a 11 km day into at least a 15 km day. But the hike was beautiful – and we did find the trail eventually. We ended up at the most wonderful little ecolodge and organic farm called Yaruk Az. I got to play with the 4-day old kid (baby goat) and lay in the grass (real grass!). Dinner was organic, vegetarian heaven – and I even tried to eat the fennel.

Day 3:
Today my feet hurt. I think it was the mud on the culvert along highway 65. Or maybe the steep descent from the Horns of Hattin. Either way, there are more blisters and a lot of raw rubbed places. I think I hiked another 15 km today, but I’m not sure because I left the trail after hiking down from the Horns of Hattin (such a beautiful and refreshing view of the Sea of Galilee!) to hike along the highway into Tiberias for the night. I’ll miss seeing Arbel and hiking down the cliff face there, but I think my body will enjoy being in the same hostel two nights in a row. Plus, I got to enjoy St. Peter’s Fish and Chips before visiting Tabatha tomorrow. This morning after we crossed route 77 we hiked a beautiful winding dirt foot path through wildflower fields – my favorite part of the hike so far. 

Day 4:
I took the bus to Capernaum Junction to get back to the trail and then spent my day hiking back to Tiberias along the shoreline. Caperrnaum was odd - there is a spaceship like church built over Peter's house which almost made the geek in me giggle - but the church of the bread and loves at Tabgatha had me in tears for the Christianity that so little resembles the man who walked and taught and fed people in these places. The walk back along the sea shore was beautiful with wildflowers covering the trail or stony beaches or crossing streams joining the sea. My feet hurt at the end of it all, but helpful hostel mates lent me medical supplies and the blisters are healing. 

Comments

  1. MegMarch 11, 2016 at 1:04 PM

    What an amazing experience! So glad you're doing this. I wish I could be there to see it in person but your writing paints a good picture.

    ReplyDelete

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